THE SIMPLE STANDING FIGURE

Ok, folks, get ready because here we go! This is going to be a step by step walk through doing the first figure in this series. I've tried to keep it simple, so that we'll all get through this and grasp the basic approach as well as get a little familiar with using the polyclay. Our figure will be all of one color polyclay that we'll paint when finished. As you work on your figure try and notice what comes easy to you and what is most difficult. Don't panic if this figure doesn't come out perfect. This figure is a practice figure. We're more concerned with getting familiar with the materials, techniques and procedures right now. If your figure comes out fantastic, that's great. If your figure comes out looking like a lump of clay, that's great too. This figure is all about getting your hands dirty and getting used to the feel of the material. Read through the whole thing before you start getting supplies; you probably have most of what you need already.

Here's What You'll Need:

Premo- just one of the 2-oz. packs. We'll only be using the PREMO on this first figure to keep it simple. We'll get into the other polyclays later. If you've purchased the MLS Sample pack, hold the Alizarin Crimson and the Sea green up together. Pick the color that appeals to you more. Our eyes "see" certain colors better than others, something about one of the color rods or cones in our eyes being slightly larger than the others. And this is different for each of us, so some of us see blue as slightly more vibrant while someone else may go for green. As you work with the different colors of polyclay, you'll find that you prefer a certain color over others because your eyes can see that color easier. My preference is the crimson, even though my eyes are blue sensitive, because I find it's a little less straining over a long sculpt session. That's why it's important to try several colors. The beige PREMO is a little more challenging to work with because it has a slight translucence to it. This makes for a great skin tone, but it also makes the fine details harder to see. So hold off on the beige for now!

Aluminum foil. NOT Heavy Duty. Regular old aluminum foil in the 12" width. I use Reynolds Wrap or Wonderfoil that I get at the $.99 Store. The Wonderfoil is thinner which makes it better for thinner or smaller armatures. It doesn't really matter which kind you use as long as it's not heavy duty.

Toothpick. Rounded. Unflavored or flavored, but get round ones. Break one end off where it reaches the center thickness. Using sandpaper, emery board, nail file, or even a regular metal file, round off this edge so that it's - round. Get it nice and even as this is the only sculpting implement we'll use on this figure!

Rubbing Alcohol. Isopropyl. We'll only need a little.

Medium Brush. You probably have one floating around. Maybe Sable, maybe not. Stiff, but not coarse bristles 1/4-1/2" long or thereabouts.

Fine Brush. Size 0 to 3/0 for painting eyes and such.

Acrylic Paints. Your figures, your choices. PollyScale, Tamiya, Craft store variety, Liquitex; they all work. I use craft acrylics from the following makers; Americana; Delta Ceramcoat; Duncan; Folk Art; Aleene's; Accent. There are even more craft paint suppliers. They all work. I've only found one to stay away from and that's Anita's, it just doesn't have enough pigment. You'll be painting shirt, pants, shoes, hair, eyes, and skin, so pick enough colors to do them all. Skin colors are the tough one, but Delta's Dresden flesh is a good start. In addition you'll need:

• A raw umber for a shadow wash
• A medium dark brown or cinnamon brown for the flesh shadow
• And a light tan like sandstone,or ivory, for highlights.

We don't use any white for highlights as it washes out so much in photography. If you're used to mixing paints raw umber and white make a good highlight color. These paints will be your largest single purchase in doing figures, but they will last a very long time.

You'll also need a few old cups and trays for paints. I use whatever the kids get from their jello, yogurt, etc. for the cups and the Styrofoam trays from the meat counter for the trays.

Good to have but not critical:

Scissors - for cutting the foil.

Needle nose pliers- for crunching the foil tighter around the neck.

PS. Don't forget the oven thermometer!