Scratchbuild A Backwoods Water Tank
Part I - Introduction
By Dwight Ennis
Milpitas, CA
Over the years, I have found few things in this hobby as
satisfying to me personally as scratchbuilding!! To take a
few sticks of wood and perhaps some commercial castings and then
build something up according to one's own design, with the end
result being a beautiful model - few things can compare with
that!! Fletch's ongoing MasterClass is a perfect
example. What he might call kitbashing, I call
scratchbuilding, at least on the level of "bashing"
that he's doing in this fine series.
Many people are afraid of scratchbuilding. They fear
that they don't have the talent, or that it won't turn out
right. Or they simply have no idea where to begin, or how
to go about it. The fear is groundless. It doesn't
take "talent" but rather a working familiarity with the
techniques, and if something doesn't turn out right, all one has
wasted is a little material and some time. Just salvage
what you can and try again. The remaining two points,
knowing where to begin, and how to go about it, are what I will try to
illustrate here.
It is my hope to guide the modeler, step-by-step, through the
process of building this rectangular backwoods-style water
tank. I've taken a photo of each step along the way as I
constructed mine, and I will do my best to explain each step in
enough detail that anyone can do everything necessary to end up
with a beautiful model. The techniques learned in building
this structure are applicable to any model, so if you can build
this one (and there's no reason anyone can't), you can build just
about any other wooden structure. There's enough variety in
this one model to cover the techniques used in building bridges,
trestles, warehouses, stations - just about any wooden structure
you might want to put your hand to. Also, this isn't the
easiest of models one could start with, but the difference
between something easy and something that looks complicated or
difficult is only in the number of steps needed to complete
things. Taken one thing at a time, the steps themselves are
the same.
Scatchbuilding is, for the most part, the art of "cutting things to
fit." One holds a the material for a needed piece next to the
location where the piece is needed, and makes a small notch with a hobby knife
indicating the needed length. I'll be illustrating this technique along
the way. When I built my tank, I didn't even prepare most of the drawings
beforehand. Only where spacing was critical, such as the tank supports and
the bent positions were drawings prepared in advance, and even these drawings
could have been a lot simpler than I made them (I was a draftsman for 25 years,
so I easily get carried away when doing drawings). My point here is that
drawings are often, if not usually, unnecessary when scratchbuilding a project, due to the
"cut to fit" nature of the endeavor. All the same, I've prepared
a complete set of drawings for this project.
One last thing before we move on. Scratchbuilding, like
all modeling, is an art form. There are as many ways to approach
a project as there are ways to paint a portrait. Obviously,
I'll be illustrating my way of building this project, but there
are lots of other ways to achieve the same end. Don't be
afraid to experiment, since my way isn't necessarily the right
way - it just happens to be the way I decided to do it. On
the next thing I build, I might do things a little differently as the need
arises.
I hope after building this tank, you'll have the confidence to
try other projects of your own creation.
Scale
I model in 1:20.3, and generally build structures to 1:20,
which I find makes measurements easier since 0.05" = 1"
instead of 0.049" = 1". Besides, 1:20 is only
1.5% bigger than 1:20.3 - a discrepancy which I doubt even the
most serious rivet counter could notice, particularly since
there's no definite prototype anyway. But back to scale,
since I built this to 1:20, that's the scale of all drawings and
real measurements. I've tried to give lumber sizes in
actual dimensions, so if you're working in a different scale, use
appropriate conversions. Drawings can be printed and
reduced on a photocopier. The following is a conversion
table to make it easier.
| Scale |
Multiply Dimensions By: |
Reduce Drawings By: |
| 1:22.5 |
0.8888 |
88.8% |
| 1:24 |
0.8333 |
83.3% |
| 1:29 |
0.6896 |
68.9% |
| 1:32 |
0.6250 |
62.5% |
|